Peter de Ruiter

Vietnam by bicycle

Personal travel in a low gear

Text and photography Peter de Ruiter

Translated by Vandana Sharma

PixelPerfect Publications | The Hague

Introduction

Peter de Ruiter and his wife Nicole cycled along the Vietnamese coast, from Hué to Nha Trang, a journey of about 1100 kilometers, greeted jovially by adults and children on their way. They see how Vietnam is flourishing economically with shrimp farms and resorts for the wealthier tourists. Traditions such as the elegant ao dai dresses and the cyclo bicycle taxi still exist, but lead a languishing existence. Despite having lived in a communist dictatorship for many years, the Vietnamese remain friendly and optimistic.

In this travel report with more than 100 beautiful photos, Peter de Ruiter gives a broad picture of the country in 2020. He compares Vietnam with 2002 when he first visited the country.

On most tablets, all photos in this ebook can be clicked up to full-screen format.

1 Join in, move out

In 1993, twenty years after the end of what is called the 'American war’, Dutch travel book writer Carolijn Visser wrote in her book “Voices and visions: A journey through Vietnam today” that there is hardly any activity in the capital of Vietnam. 25 years later and it is precisely the tranquillity that is difficult to find. Even on a free Sunday like 1 January 2020, a large part of the population speeds through the city on a Honda, Yamaha or a China-made moped. At busy intersections, the two-wheelers joined in for a short time, before moving out again.

Welcome to Hanoi! The number of cars is limited, but the number of mopeds and light motorcycles is overwhelming. The noise is not too bad, as are the exhaust gases. Unlike in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, my lungs don't bother me here.

Pitch black ca phe

If the motorized resident of Hanoi does not move from A to B, he drinks pitch black ca phe on the terrace of one of the many coffee shops. They opened up in Vietnam since the country managed to become the world's second coffee producer, after Brazil, in only a few decades.

Coffee in an authentic Vietnamese way: with a personal drip filter (phin). Often you put some ice cubes in the glass to make iced coffee. The coffee grown in Vietnam is mainly of the Robusta type, which has a somewhat liquorice-like flavor. In the west mainly Arabica is drunk, which is more subtle on the tongue.

The coffee drinker prefers to park his moped right on the doorstep, within view. The pedestrian gets blocked. He has to avoid the long rows of motorcycles, as well as the many thick trees on the sidewalks and the furniture of the eateries that have declared the footpath a dining hall.

It is a challenge to find your way on the sidewalks of Hanoi. ‘Public space’ is a relative term: mopeds, food shops and merchandise make you twist and turn if you want to explore the city.

Staying cool

This means that as a pedestrian one must regularly take part in the rushing traffic on the road. This is easier than you might think though, even as a cyclist. Just go with the flow and nothing will happen to you, especially if you go straight on like the others. Drivers give each other plenty of space. Join in, move out, join in, move out.

Like father, like daughter.

What more do you want from life?

Even as a pedestrian, you don't have to be afraid crossing a busy street. Walk straight slowly, avoid unexpected movements and the traffic flows around you like the water of a slow flowing river. No honking, no agitation. Even with eyes closed, one would probably get across the street in most cases.

(Click here for my demonstration on YouTube)

Nicole cycling on the Long Bien Bridge across the Red River, on the east side of Hanoi. The bridge was built in the late 1800s / early 1900s by the then French rulers. Reportedly, this bridge was often bombed by the Americans during the war, but the North Vietnamese repeatedly put it back together again. The bombing ended after the Vietnamese put American prisoners of war to work at the bridge.

Vegetables and fruit on the Long Bien Bridge.

2 Reunification Day

Today was reunification day. I do not mean the day North and South Vietnam reunited after the American war, but the day we saw our bicycles again. It was the first time during our nine years of cycling holidays around the world that we had been separated from our bicycles. It was for a short time but a long distance apart. Quite a strain!

On the train from Hanoi to Hué, which runs horribly close to the houses in the capital.

Though we landed in Hanoi, the actual cycling would start in Hué, about 700 kilometers south and almost on the coast. I expected the weather to be chilly in Hanoi around this time of the year hence preferred to start with our cycle trip a bit further south. Via internet I had booked a ticket for a night train to Hué. Unfortunately, there was no option to make a reservation for our bikes to come along, although the website assured 'that there is certainly a room for our moped'. Then one expects a bicycle too to be welcome.

A few times a day one has to be very careful here in Hanoi. Or to be more specific: it is a local tourist attraction.

English shortcomings

Once in Hanoi, two days before the train's departure, we try to find the (private) company where I bought the tickets. Can’t find it. At the railway station we are told that we just have to report an hour before departure; then we'll be fine. To be sure, we arrive two hours in advance. In a conversation in poor English, it becomes clear to us that there is no room for bicycles on our train.